![]() ![]() The ends of the bleeder screw is machined and designed to form a good seal with its mating surface so you don't need to go crazy and over-tighten it since the threads don't do any actual sealing.Įven if you're not that experienced this procedure shouldn't take you much more than an hour tops if you have a good assistant. When you're done, tighten the bleeder screw securely and snugly but don't go ape-crazy and over-tighten it (you may break the screw) put the rubber cap back on it and you're done. Trust me, it's VERY satisfying to see the color of the brake fluid changing slowly from a coke/coffee color into a clear lemonade color. Repeat the above procedures until the fluid coming out of your brake caliper becomes clear and/or you don't see any air bubbles coming out anymore. This prevents air bubbles from getting back into the system as the brake pedal retracts. While your assistant is still holding the brake pedal down, tighten the bleeder screw and then tell your assistant to release the brake. Tell your assistant to keep the brake pedal down when he/she pushed it to the bottom. ![]() If you want to feel safer just put a small block of wood under the brake pedal so you can't push it into the floor. People say that kind of extended travel gouges the ends of the master cylinders, though I don't know if it's really true or not. Remind your assistant not to push the brake pedal ALL THE WAY down. If you loosen too much you increase the chances of air getting back into the system since those threads are not designed to seal out air. You only need to loosen the bleeder screw enough so the fluid can rush out. ![]() ![]() You should see brake fluid gushing into the hose and the container. Grab your wrench, tell your assistant to start SLOWLY push on the brake pedal, as you open the bleeder screw. Fit one end of your clear hose onto the bleeder and the other into a large empty jar (or milk container, whatever). Locate the bleeder screw on the brake caliper, remove the rubber cap. Take the normal pre-cautions like don't get under the car unless the car is securely on the jackstand, etc. Loosen the lug nuts, jack up that corner, and remove the wheel. You'll need an assistant to sit in the car to pump the brake pedal for you. Steps you need to take to bleed each corner: Those hoses are sold by the foot and they are cheap. a clear (vinyl I think?) hose from your local hardware store I think 1/4" ID hose would do but just buy a few sections in different IDs close to 1/4" so you have the perfect one in hand when you start the job. A good 6-sided box end wrench to loosen/tighten the bleeder screws The idea is to get the air bubbles, if there are any in the system, out the closest caliper first. I think the factory suggests bleeding the brake closest to the master cylinder first, so the order is driver-front, passenger-front, driver-rear, and passenger-rear. Sucking it out of the master cylinder reservoir does nothing as somebody pointed out, since the fluid doesn't really circulate in the system) (And yes, I've also used Mityvacs to suck out the fluids from each brake calipers but I found good old-fashioned bleeding the most effective. Bleeding the brakes really isn't that hard nor that complicated, so if you care about the car why not take the 1 hour or so to do it right? ![]()
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